Lake Mungo

Lake Mungo

The O'Donnell’s are seen off at the airport - the rest of us head for Lake Mungo - Google maps tells us it will take us four hours - we pause - the sign says 110k - we pause some more - check google again - it's also says 110k but insists it will take us 4 hours!

The 110k is right - 30k of bitumen followed by 80k of gravel - gee this road must be be - in reality the road was in good condition - speeds of  60-80kph were safe and appropriate - despite the occasional road train we arrive in a virtual flash!

Into the modern and neat Visitors Centre - no Park Ranger is present - we find a private tour operator from Mildura - we ask him about checking into the Shearers quarters- he points us in the direction and show us the board with names and keys - sure enough - there are our names and there are our keys hanging out for collection.

Facilities are pretty good - basic - cheap - clean and tidy.

We read the notes in the camp kitchen - take a tour it says - we wander over to the visitors Centre again - a ranger has arrived back from other duties - I can take you on a tour in half an hour says he.

We don the fly nets that niece and Lake Mungo neighbour Lisa had recommended - meet the guide - delightful aboriginal fellow - and hour and half on the dunes of the Walls of China - interesting, personal, fascinating, informative – think of Mungo girl, of Mungo man and of Mungo child – imaging what this pace must have been like 40,000 years ago – plenty of water – plenty of fish – plenty of mega-fauna – plenty of bush tucker – life as good as it could be for its inhabitants – be brought back to earth by rising temperatures – by the dry lake in front of us - Say a silent prayer of thanks that Lisa had suggested the fly nets - without them the tour would have been intolerable – with them it was a delight.

Return just a little thirsty – investigate the Mungo Lodge and its facilities – well that is an exaggeration – in reality we only examine the interior of their generous bar and dining facility – make a significant dent in their stocks of gin and Northern beer.

Only one other couple in the shearing quarters - they are self-contained so we have the kitchen dining room to ourselves - wine, wine, spaghetti and tacos salsa - stories of Cambridge - Stories of the University of Adelaide.

Oh dam! - You idiot! - of course you should have turned off the internal light in that galvanized shed that are your sleeping quarters - we arrive ready for bed to find the walls of the room covered in flying ants - oh dear - never mind - at least they don't bite - copious application of bushman spray will prevent they tickling you during the night!

Rise late - watch the Lake Mungo film in the visitors Centre - head out on the 70k self-drive circuit - enjoyable - enjoyable - the weather much, much cooler - the flies confined to their quarters by both temperate temperature and modest winds - overcast - stop - stop. Photograph - stop - photograph - walk - read the signs - identify the flora - walk some more - photograph the birds - photograph the kangaroos - photograph the emus - the stumpy tail lizards - stop - stop - stop again - flowers - flowers - fantastic.

Back to Shearers Quarters – Bernie heads for her afternoon nap – Roger and Janet walk the 7 kilometres to Zanci Station and back – write – write and write some more – the Shearer’s Quarters are deserted – the area quiet and peaceful – enjoy!

Bernie awakes – Roger and Janet return – another visit to Mungo Lodge – more Gin and Tonic – order a final round – its arrives – that is the last of the gin says the pleasant bar manager – the manager will get some more next week.

We finish our drinks – wander out – say farewell to the bar manager – “we will see you again when you have some more gin” says I – “send me an email in advance of your next visit and I will make sure I have a case” says she.

More wine – a barbeque – more wine – some more wine – a rest on the generous benches looking up at the stars – clear – clear – bright – bright - a waxing moon! – not a breeze – not a mosquito – this experience could be a strong contender for the best definition of heaven.

A last night in the tiny corrugated Iron shed that was our accommodations – rise – pack and leave – hold on – there is a big four wheel drive entering the visitor’s centre – two large kayaks on its generous roof bars – clearly he has been delayed – after all he is 40,000 too late if he came to exercise his kayaks on Lake Mungo!

Two hours and we are back in Mildura – we stop at the Inland Botanical gardens on the outskirts of Mildura – we overhear the proceeding of a private function being held in the gardens – Parks people and local aboriginals are discussing how they should handle the return of Mungo Man to his original resting place – we move on quickly – this is not something that is any of our business – the gardens pleasant – the roses spectacular – the rangeland presentations a little under-whelming – like so many of this great ideas funding is clearly inhibiting the development of gardens.

We wander on to Woodsies Gemshop – essential – much, much more than one would normally expect – huge shop – variety – variety – reasonable prices – prices to suit everyone – great café – visit it! – We leave with Bernie’s wallet light and handbag heavier.

Back at the motel – the van actually looks pleased to see us – is this just a ploy to lead up to a false sense of security – time will tell.